Life in the contradas
Siena is divided into 17 historic districts, called contradas. They used to function as guilds, with members of one contrade always working in the same profession. The division of the city into contrade is still very closely linked to people's lives, as every inhabitant of the city belongs to one of them from birth to death. Each contrade has its own emblem, after which it is also named (e.g. dragon, goose, forest, eagle), a flag, a church with its patron, a motto. When you walk through the streets of Siena, it is easy to find out which contrada you are in by looking at the flags and emblems. Neighbouring contrade consider each other as enemies, while the more distant ones usually maintain friendly and cooperative relations with each other.
Historical tradition, civic prestige
The Palio is much more than a simple event for the people of Siena, they experience it in a very emotional way, as the various contrade measure each other in a race of strength. It is an important part of life in Siena, and each contrade is involved in the preparation and organisation of the Palio throughout the year.
The history of the Palio dates back to the 6th century. Over the centuries, the various customs and traditions associated with the event have gradually evolved. Each contrade chooses its jockey, but not the horse. The jockeys are assigned by lot only 3 days before the race.
The race takes place in Siena's central square, the Piazza del Campo. Spectators can cheer from the centre of the square, around which the racecourse for the race is built. The race itself is run over three laps and usually lasts just over a minute. Jockeys compete on unsaddled horses. Jockeys often fall off their horses as there are several sharp turns on the track. However, the horse is always considered the winner of the Palio, not the jockey. It has happened more than twenty times that a lone horse has been the first to finish, having lost its rider during the race.
After the race, the winning contrade celebrates for several days in the streets of the city. The losing team has the right to throw a party without any penalties.
The course of the event
On the day of the Palio around 15:00 each contrade performs the ceremony of blessing their horse and then joins the great parade in historical costumes, with more than 600 participants, which passes through the city. The parade arrives around 17:00 in the Piazza del Campo and ends around 19:00. Then the race itself takes place, followed by lavish masses and celebrations in the streets, churches and Siena Cathedral.
Tips for visitors to Palio
The Palio is undoubtedly a unique opportunity to experience the passion and pride of the people of Siena. If you are in the vicinity, don't miss it. But at the same time, remember that the Palio is not primarily a tourist attraction, but something special and significant for the Sienese themselves. It is therefore appropriate to behave as a guest here, with humility and respect for local traditions and customs.
The race can be watched from the Piazza del Campo free of charge, but it is necessary to arrive several hours in advance in order to reach the square and to secure a suitable place to stand. You can buy drinks in the square, but be aware that there are no public toilets. We recommend taking your drinks in a bottle with you. Be sure to remember your headgear to protect yourself from the sun and heat. Due to the large number of people and the heat, and also due to the scuffles that often arise in the crowd between the contras, we strongly recommend not to bring small children with you to the square.
It is much more comfortable to watch the race from the houses around Piazza del Campo. However, there are no official ticket sales for these places. You should try to contact the residents of the houses overlooking the square directly and make arrangements with them. They also often offer refreshments, which include typical Sienese sweets.
Enjoy the unique atmosphere that only the Palio di Siena offers!
