Unlike the crowded villages of Cinque Terre, La Spezia feels more relaxed and peaceful. Instead of crowds of tourists, you'll find locals having afternoon coffee, families on the promenade and fishermen returning from the sea.
At the heart of the town is the Passeggiata Morin, a long promenade lined with palm trees that offers a beautiful view of the yacht-filled harbour. The perfect place for an evening stroll, gelato or a classic Italian aperitivo at sunset.
Historic centre full of flavours
Just walk down from the seafront into the streets around Via del Prione and you'll find yourself in a lively centre full of small shops, bakeries and cafes. It is here that you can taste authentic Ligurian cuisine at its simplest and best.
Don't expect fine dining - simplicity reigns here: fresh focaccia with olive oil, farinata, a thin chickpea cake baked in the oven, pasta trofie with pesto, seafood that was still in the sea this morning. And a glass of light white wine from the surrounding Cinque Terre vineyards.
Every Friday and Saturday morning there are fish markets in La Spezia.
Views worth seeing
The Castello San Giorgio, a fortress towering over the town, offers one of the best views of the entire bay. It's the perfect place to go in the morning or towards evening, when the light makes the harbour and surrounding hills look almost cinematic.
If you're drawn to history and ships, the Museo Tecnico Navale, one of the most interesting maritime museums in Italy, is definitely worth a visit.
An ideal base for excursions
One of La Spezia's greatest assets is its location. From here you can easily reach not only the Cinque Terre but also less touristy places. A great experience is a boat trip along the coast - the view of the colourful villages from the sea is completely different from the train (in fact, you can also visit the Cinque Terre by train, the train leaves directly from La Spezia). You can buy boat trips online or at the pier. You can enjoy either a short, about 2 hour cruise with dinner, or a full day (about 8 hours long) trip with stops in some of the Cinque Terre villages.
If you should choose only one trip, head to Portovenere. This place has retained more tranquility and charm, and offers spectacular views. The Church of St. Peter stands dramatically on a cliff above the sea, with the waves crashing below, and the whole place has an almost magical feel.
The island of Palmaria, reached by boat, is also worth mentioning. There you'll find beautiful coves, clear water and far fewer people than on the mainland.
Swimming and beaches
La Spezia itself is primarily a port, so you'll have to walk a bit to reach the classic beaches. Nearby Lerici or San Terenzo offer sandy beaches and relaxed swimming, while Portovenere is more about wild rocky shores and clear seas.
La Spezia is not a town that will impress you at first sight. But the longer you stay, the more it wins you over. It offers authentic Italy without embellishment, great food, beautiful views and the perfect starting point for exploring Liguria. And maybe that's why you'll end up loving it more than the Cinque Terre itself.
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